Glenn Martens
Creative Director, Diesel & Y/Project
A member of Paris’s avant-garde, Martens is spearheading a streetwear revolution in the city with his commercial-yet-conceptual brand.
The creative director of Diesel is part of Paris’s new guard of fashion designers spearheading the streetwear revolution, infusing humour into conceptual, forward-thinking collections.
Taking what started out as a men’s label under late founder Yohan Serfaty in 2010, Martens expanded into womenswear, slowly introducing his own codes into the house. Today, Y/Project is one of the most anticipated shows at Paris fashion week, with its finger firmly on the pulse of the city’s dynamic new wave.
Originally from Bruges, Belgium, with a degree in interior architecture, Martens stumbled upon fashion by accident. After applying to the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp with nothing more than a few sketches — feeling too young to enter the professional world — Martens was accepted, and graduated first in his class.
After finishing his studies, Martens was offered a role at Jean Paul Gaultier as junior designer for the women’s pre-collection and his menswear label G2. In 2012, he started his eponymous label, which made its debut at Paris Fashion Week, and ran for three seasons.
Martens had been working as first assistant to Y/Project creative director and founder Yohan Serfaty. After Serfaty passed away in April 2013, his business partner Gilles Elalouf convinced Martens to take the helm of the label.
In a few seasons, the Rick Owens -inspired menswear label turned into a brand worn by millennials and A-listers alike. Streetwear is infused with unisex pieces, in collections that echo the conceptual spirit of Belgian designers. Y/Project’s current appeal, that saw Martens craft a suit for Rihanna, lies in the intersection of offbeat references and a singular vision.
Martens joined Diesel as he was appointed artistic director in October 2020. He remains at the helm of Y/Project while working at OTB’s Diesel.
In 2017 Martens was awarded the ANDAM prize, winning $280,000 and a year-long mentorship from Francesca Bellettini , CEO and president of Yves Saint Laurent. It comes as Y/Project is moving into its next stage, with new factory partners in France and Portugal to keep up with growth.
Creative Director
2013 - Present
Founder & Creative Director
2012 - 2013
Junior Designer
VITAL STATISTICS
What is The BoF 500?
The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world.
ExploreWhat is The BoF 500?
The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world.
ExploreTop 10 Shows of the Season
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.
In Milan, Democracy Triumphs at Diesel While Fendi Finds Its Feet
Glenn Martens and Kim Jones had a very good day on Monday. Wookies! Chuba Chups! Whatever next!
The BoF Podcast | Restarts and Resets in the Fashion Month Gone By
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
The BoF Podcast | Restarts and Resets in the Fashion Month Gone By
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
How to Remake/Remodel a Fashion Icon
On the first day of Milan Fashion Week, Kim Jones, Glenn Martens and Fausto Puglisi offer different strategies for future-proofing, writes Tim Blanks.
Can Diesel Repeat Its Y2K Success?
The designer-denim pioneer, now under the creative direction of Glenn Martens, continues to build momentum among the young and hot.
In Milan, Looking Back to Find the Future
The Milan fashion week that ended in silence today put Italy at the centre of the fashion conversation, reports Angelo Flaccavento.
Milan Fashion Week Is Back to Its Pre-Pandemic Glory. What’s Changed?
This week, everyone will be talking about a packed schedule in Milan, Farfetch’s results and its ongoing talks with Richemont, plus the OECD’s annual forum on responsible supply chains.
In Paris, Couture’s Return to Clothes Making
Haute couture, once the realm of unbridled dreams, is getting back to making clothes, reports Angelo Flaccavento.
The Breakthrough Designer Rebooting Diesel
Glenn Martens speaks exclusively to Tim Blanks about re-energising the Italian denim brand, designing for his own label Y/Project and pushing people to rethink fashion.
Glenn Martens’ Deranged Diesel Debut
With a twisted energy that felt fresh and relevant, the designer is the right fit for rebooting Diesel, writes Angelo Flaccavento.