Ann Demeulemeester
Founder, Ann Demeulemeester
One of the original ‘Antwerp Six’ designers, she has built a successful business around her gothic, bohemian-inspired collections.
Belgian fashion designer Ann Demeulemeester shot to prominence in the mid 1980s as part of a group of visionary Royal Academy of Fine Arts graduates, whose cutting-edge showcase at London Fashion Week in 1986 earned them instant international acclaim as the “Antwerp Six.”
Demeulemeester launched her eponymous label in 1985 in collaboration with her husband, the photographer Patrick Robyn. She held her first catwalk show in Paris in 1991 and, in 1996, following the debut of her menswear line, became one of the first designers to showcase both men's and women’s collections in one presentation.
Over time, she managed to build a successful business around her gothic, bohemian-inspired collections. But in November 2013, Demeulemeester announced that she would leave her namesake label. “A new time is coming both for my personal life and the brand Ann Demeulemeester. I feel it’s time to separate our paths. Ann Demeulemeester is an adult brand now with its own identity and legacy that is able to continue growing without me,” wrote the designer in a handwritten letter that was distributed via email.
Managed through bvba 32, the Ann Demuelemeester operates out of Antwerp and operates three standalone stores in Antwerp, Tokyo and Hong Kong. Anne Chapelle , who has been managing director of Ann Demeulemeester since 1994, owns what is thought to be a significant stake in the company.
Since stepping away from her namesake brand, Demeulemeester has based herself in the small Belgian town of Kessel and developed a hobby of making ceramics into a tableware line with the help of Serax founder Axel Van Den Bossche.
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The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world.
ExploreWhat is The BoF 500?
The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world.
ExploreAnn Demeulemeester’s Enduring Modernity
‘I do not like timeless,’ said the Belgian designer, whose freshly opened retrospective highlights a body of work that is both of its time and completely modern. What does that spell for her brand’s reboot under Claudio Antonioli?
In Rare Reunion, ‘Antwerp Six’ Answer Students’ Questions
Five members of the legendary Antwerp Six — Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee — discuss the pressures of being a designer, how the industry has changed and staying true to yourself, courtesy of Belgian magazine Knack Weekend.
In Rare Reunion, ‘Antwerp Six’ Answer Students’ Questions
Five members of the legendary Antwerp Six — Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee — discuss the pressures of being a designer, how the industry has changed and staying true to yourself, courtesy of Belgian magazine Knack Weekend.
With Ann Demeulemeester’s Involvement, Revamp Takes Shape
The brand’s founder will not return to designing clothes, but she will work on special projects, such as creating its first perfume. Demeulemeester and new owner Claudio Antonioli spoke to BoF about their plans as they reopen the label’s Antwerp flagship.
With Ann Demeulemeester’s Involvement, Revamp Takes Shape
The brand’s founder will not return to designing clothes, but she will work on special projects, such as creating its first perfume. Demeulemeester and new owner Claudio Antonioli spoke to BoF about their plans as they reopen the label’s Antwerp flagship.
The Risks and Rewards of Live Shows at Paris Fashion Week
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Claudio Antonioli’s Plan for Ann Demeulemeester
In an exclusive interview, the co-founder of New Guards Group and owner of the Antonioli boutique in Milan lays out his plans for the revered Belgian brand.
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The American e-commerce giant has been trying to lure luxury fashion brands to its platform for years. Now, it’s new, mobile-only ‘Luxury Stores’ launch aims to adapt the successful template set out by Alibaba’s Tmall for its customers.
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A heady mix of macho-femme and delicate romanticism dominated the runways, but Craig Green transcended it all, reports Angelo Flaccavento.
Op-Ed | To Democratise Camp Is to Kill It
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s large-scale, Gucci-backed show on Camp may be pushing the inherently subcultural sensibility closer to extinction, argues Eugene Rabkin.